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Hanhart 415 ES Pure
Retro two-eye chronographs are where it’s at these days, at least for quite a few brands, and Hanhart dipped into the past again and reissued the Hanhart 415 ES. Originally launched in the mid-1960s, this two-eye chrono was the first to feature a bi-directional bezel instead of their iconic fluted bezel. This new one is all upgraded with modern materials and there are two versions to choose the Hanhart 415 ES Pure that I have for review and the Iconic version with gilt hands and the old radium-style lume for that extra vintage effect. It’s equipped with the Sellita SW510M, a domed sapphire, a ceramic bezel insert, and retails for $2680 US.
Specifications
39mm Stainless Steel Case
13.5mm thick
46mm Lug to Lug
20mm Lug Width
86.5 grams
Sellita SW510M movement
58 Hour power reserve
Shock-protected with Hanhart movement damping as additional shock protection
Domed Sapphire Crystal
100m Water Resistant
Calf Leather Strap
Current Price $2680 (Watchbuys)
Watchbuys-https://www.watchbuys.com/store/pc/Hanhart-415-ES-Pure-Chronograph-39-mm-4p8027.htm
Hanahart Website-https://www.hanhart.com/produkt/415-es-pure-39-mm/
This is far from the first time Hanhart has dipped into their history for a new model, matter of fact they have done it quite a few times, and 2 years ago they did it with the 417 ES. While there are a few different versions (and sizes) of that model, I reviewed the 42mm with a fairly new Hnahrt steel bracelet. It’s a gorgeous piece, that uses the same Sellita manual movement as this 417, and it’s been a very popular model for the German watchmaker.
The Hanhart 415 ES Pure takes from the 60s whereas the 417 ES was modeled after a Hanhart from the 50s. The 415 was the first chronograph for the German Airforce and the 417 is the first model to feature a bi-directional timing bezel, which was/is quite a different look for Hanhart, as well as adding extra function to this two-eye chrono.
This Hanhart 415 ES Pure chronograph only comes in one size at the movement, 39mm, unlike the 417 which is available in both 39mm and 42mm. This one stays true to the original in size as well as looks. Hanhart created an almost replica of the original with this new model, with only a few differences. The dial is mostly unchanged except for the right subdial now being a 30-minute counter, and a slight change in hand design, this is a very faithful reissue.
The numbers, triangle or cone indices, the tachymeter, and that red 100th scale are all still here. What does that red hundredth scale do? I have no idea, but it’s there if you know what it is and need it. Your running seconds are on the 9 o’clock subdial, and of course, running the chronograph is as easy as a press on the top pusher. Hit it again to stop and press the 4 o’clock pusher to reset. Pretty typical for a chronograph. They even brought over the curved minute and second hand, so you don’t have that parallax effect with the beautiful domed sapphire crystal.
What else did they bring from the vintage reference? The winged logo. This logo hasn’t been used in almost 40 years, but it makes its return on the Hanhart 415 ES pure. It’s of course present on the dial, but you can see it on the case back, as well as the winged H on the large crown.
Now is as good a time as any to discuss that crown, as this watch is water resistant to 100m, yet has a push/pull crown. Watch Report readers will know I have a hang-up about push/pull crowns, not just because of water resistance, but I just prefer that extra security of a screw-down crown and not having to worry about the crown accidentally catching and popping out. In fairness, I have not had one issue while wearing this piece, and I’ve seen that a reviewer tested this watch in the ocean, and it held up without issue. I won’t be taking it in the ocean any time soon, but it’s good to know I don’t have to worry about the dial fogging up if I get caught in a downpour.
While 13.5mm might sound pretty thick for a vintage-style chronograph sized at 39mm, I think it’s quite thin. I’ve seen vintage references much thicker, and some of that thickness is taken up by that lovely box sapphire crystal. The mid-case is not that thick, and when on the wrist, this doesn’t feel thick at all. The case is mostly satin brushed with a polished change, bezel edge and crown, and pushers. It’s a nice mix of finishes and gives it a nice modern aesthetic.
Speaking of the wrist, the Hanhart 415 ES is 39mm, and I can’t lie, I would prefer the 42mm size like the 417 ES I reviewed. It doesn’t exactly look out of place or too small on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist, but I would like to see more of my wrist covered. It’s just a personal preference, and I know all the rage is vintage-sized 38 and 39-mm pieces, I would like it even at 40 or 41mm.
That said, it does wear well on my wrist, and the case back is very comfortable, as is that amazing Alcantara-backed calf leather strap. I have the black one, but it’s also available in both a light and dark brown, and it’s just a wonderful strap. The buckle could use an upgrade for sure, especially with a watch at this price, but this is one comfortable leather strap. Another good thing about the strap is that this is medium size, so if you have a large wrist, don’t fret, there is a larger strap to suit you.
Don’t worry, I didn’t forget about the bezel and its functionality, and while a bi-directional bezel or two-eye chronograph is not uncommon these days, both of them together on a Hanhart in 1964 was a big deal. I’m not sure what the bezel insert was back then, probably aluminum or just coated steel, but the reissue uses ceramic, and it is matte ceramic, a favorite of mine. It matches the matte dial, and just looks fantastic, and won’t show any fingerprints either.
It clicks as smoothly as most b-directional bezels, which is to say great, but these pilot-style timing bezels are less about that smooth ratching feel that we desk divers like to fiddle with, and more about being precise and easily changed to time something. In combination with the chronograph and the 58-hour power reserve from the SW510M, this is a tool watch with the obvious vintage vibe.
This one isn’t as in-your-face vintage though as the Iconic model. The ES Iconinc was released first and while many love that look, I love this white hand Pure version. This may sound like an odd take too, but the lume, despite being X2 SuperLumiNova, isn’t the best due to the small indices and hands, but with the white hands, I bet its probably a little easier to see in the dark.
At $2680, (400 more than the ES 415 I reviewed) I initially wondered why the price is what I considered on the high side. Now I freely admit, that while this is a wonderful watch, it’s not exactly a watch I fell deeply in love with. I’m sure brands hate to hear that, but let’s be honest, how fake would it be for me to gush over every single watch I reviewed?
The reality is, that this is a solid, well-built, and quite attractive piece from Hanhart, and I expected no less from them. They have become one of the watch brands I look forward to reviewing most over the last decade and it is simply because they manufacture hit after hit. This one just didn’t hit me. That price though? It’s more than in line with so many others on the market or ones coming soon, and for those out there who are looking for a two-eye vintage chrono., this one should at least make your list. Retro is here to stay, and that’s a good thing, especially when brands are bringing back watches from their past like this Hanhart 415 ES Pure.
Hanhart
